What's In A Suit (Part 3 of 4)


January 20, 2017

From the beginning we set out to build the highest quality suit possible, using only cloth from the world’s greatest European mills, at as low of a price as possible. We believe that a world-class suit shouldn’t cost $8,000. We spent years deconstructing our industry, comparing brands, construction techniques, cloth mills, and every level of the supply chain. Our research, extensive travel, and ability to work directly with cloth mills and manufacturers have shortened our supply chain significantly. This allows us to offer some of the finest custom suits in the world at extremely aggressive prices. 

As we built our production program, we sourced the finest materials, the most skilled master tailors, and the latest in pattern and cutting technology. A great suit is much more than a good fit and nice cloth. While these are very important, there are many other areas where we provide value to our clients. It’s an unfortunate reality that in the suit business – particularly in the world of custom suits – there exists a great deal of deceit. Many companies prey on the ignorant with misleading information about cloth composition, country of origin, and construction techniques. We believe in being 100% transparent. We want to educate our clients and help them make informed decisions as they invest in their wardrobe.

In this 4-part series we will break down the details of what contributes to the value (and cost) of a world-class suit.

PART 3 - THE CUSTOMIZATIONS

1) Fit - For some, this may be the most important topic of all. It’s been often said that a cheap suit with an amazing fit will always look better than an expensive suit that doesn’t fit. We agree. Not all custom clothiers treat fit the same way. We have encountered many companies that take a few token measurements and really don’t give the client much control over fit. Others are unwilling to make a suit to your preferences for fit if it doesn’t fit into their program. Our philosophy is that it’s your body, your suit. You’re going to wear it, not us. So you need to love it. Our house style is for classic, well-fitting suits. Tailored to the individual’s body, not overly large nor too tight. We like a suit with high armholes that hugs the shoulders, tapers at the waist, and overall follows the contours of the body. That’s classic fit that will flatter you and never go out of style. If you want a fuller fit, you can have that. If you want a more tailored, modern fit, that’s fine with us. If you want an extremely trendy, slim fit, we can accommodate. We consider over 30 different measurement points when fitting a two-piece suit. It’s both art and science and we believe in finding a balance of both.

2) Design - Theoretically every aspect of a custom suit could be, well, customized. Realistically companies must identify what can be customized and what cannot. We believe in offering as many customizations as possible. Over the years we have added options and subtracted options, based on the feedback from thousands of clients. Our list of customizable features is extensive. Our standard list of questions encompasses a wide array of structural options (lapels, pockets, vents, construction, etc.) as well as a large set of aesthetic choices (linings, trim, under collar, buttons, buttonhole thread, etc.) The combination of these things allows our clients to put their personality into their suit, and the resulting garment is always a true one-of-a-kind.

3) Peculiarities - Every body has its unique characteristics. Beyond just size, which we address like any good custom clothier, we take it a step further. We learned through experience that a great fit needs to accommodate other, more subtle, variations in the body. We account for shoulder slope, posture, how weight is carried though the midsection, neck length, prominent shoulder blades and collar bones, arms of different lengths, legs of different lengths, and the pitch of the arms from the shoulder. An experienced tailor should be able to spot these things and account for them in the cut of the suit. We believe this is one of the things that sets us apart from the competition. It’s also a reason why the face-to-face experience can never fully be duplicated online.

 



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